Salmon, Sushi, Sun and Sky

Today was a kind of surprise day. Full of activities that I didn’t see coming.  We had a nice start to the day in our cottage then packed up for our journey back home (the house in Timaru). We decided we needed to see/get more salmon so we headed to a different salmon farm to see what they had. This one let us feed the salmon. We would throw the provided pellets into the water and the salmon would very quickly dart to the top, grab the food and disappear. It made taking pictures very difficult. 

We decided to be brave and we purchased discount salmon sushi for a mid morning snack (what could go wrong with that plan?). But it actually was very delicious. 

We also bought salmon fillets for a future dinner and some salmon chorizo. 

We then started the drive home. Along the way we took a short detour up a small mountain to an observatory with a spectacular cafe. We could see out in all directions to amazing views. There were 5 or 6 observatory buildings and a glass cafe with great toasties and cake. Pure heaven (and we felt pretty close to heaven). 





After a delicious lunch we headed back home. It was nice to be back in Timatu. One of the highlights of this house is a great backyard hot tub. So we had pupus and hard Apple cider while having a soak. 

Later we had a great Indusn dinner before calling it a night. 

Hiking, hiking, hiking

After a good night sleep we awoke and enjoyed a leisurely morning at the cottage. We decided to stay a second night and prepared for our day of hiking in the Mount Cook National Park. The drive up was beautiful with the mountains getting closer as we drove. 

We checked out the visitor center then decided on the Hooker Valley Track as our big hike of the day. The trail went gradually upward crossing back and forth over cool bridges across a river. 

The scenery was spectacular with great views of the snow covered mountains. 

We finally arrived at the Hooker glacier lake with chunks of glacial ice floating around. We sat and had lunch. 

After making our way back to the car we took a second hike up the side of a mountain through an old Beach tree forest with views out over the plains. 





Then deciding that two hikes wasn’t enough we took one last  hike to an overlook of the Tasaman glacier and another iceberg lake. 



All in all a 12 mile hike day. We returned to the cottage for lamb sausages on the BBQ before heading to bed exhausted from a great day.

Salmon and biking

Today we woke up very early so we could drive two hours to the Mount Cook National Park. It was an interesting drive through farm land, pig farms with ginormous hogs (looking clean and happy) and views toward the approaching mountains. Along the way we stopped at a small shop that sold fresh salmon products raised in the glacier fed waters of the area. 

The shop overlooked a glacial lake with amazing blue waters. 

We arrived at the small town of Twizel (pronounced with a long I). I rented a bicycle (K&J had bikes from there home exchange people). We set out on a 12km bike trek to Lake Pukaki. 

It was a great trip relatively flat with amazing views toward Mount Cook. At the end we had lunch on the shores of Lake Pukaki and has a little rest. 

We then headed back. Once in Twizel we visited the large  equipment located in the park used to make the nearby hydroelectric dam. 

We then made our way to the Gladstone Cottage that we had rented for the night. We feasted on our salmon purchases. Smoked salmon for appetizer and fresh salmon for dinner. Amazing. 





Tomorrow we’re off to hike the national park.

Tour of Timaru

Today was a day to see the small town of Timaru. A cute little town on the ocean. We spent the morning having coffee, reading guide books and enjoying the nice house that K&J have. At lunch we set out to see the town. First stop Caroliba Bay. There were nice board walks through the dunes and a small beach. 



After a nice stroll we had a picnic. 

Next up was the Timaru/Cantebury museum. A history of the town, how it got  started, the journey of the first English people in the 1800s. Well done and informative. 

We then headed home for a rest. Next up was a trip at sunset to see penguins swim ashore, walk up the beach and go hide in the rocks. We arrived about 20 minutes before sunset, enjoyed a walk along the jetty and watched the sunset. 



Then we waited for the arrival of the penguins and we waited and we waited. Finally after about an hour we gave up. We’ll try again another night starting a bit later. We headed back home for a great dinner of left overs. Then to bed early. Tomorrow is a road trip to the mountains and we must start early. 

On to Timaru

I arrived easily in Christchurch where there was a light rain falling. I retrieved my bag and found the city bus to take me to Christchurch City Center. What I  noticed as the bus made it way was the amazing amount of construction.  A closer look showed that it wasn’t all really construction. Much of the scaffolding and fencing was the result of earthquake damage. Walls being propped up, buildings fenced off, roof damage, exposed siding etc. it’s everywhere. Once downtown the evidence is even greater of the damage from the great quakes a few years ago. The most prominent damage is the old cathedral. After 3 years it still sits damaged and unrepaired. 

The downtown area is very cute with small shops and an old trolley that circles the area. 

I grabbed a chicken wrap and some cookies and found my bus stop to continue the journey. It was a 2.5 hour journey through flat farm land with views if mountains in the distance. The sun came out and it was a beautiful day. At 5:00pm the bus pulled into the train station in Timaru where I could see John and Kathleen awaiting my arrival, a welcomed sight. the three/four day journey was over. I had arrived. 

They took me for a pint at a great pub with indoor and outdoor seating. I had a pint of Old Dark, delicious. We then journeyed to their house exchange home. It is a lovely place with big doorways opened on to a small well manicured backyard.

After a dip in the hot tub  Kathleen and John prepared an amazing dinner of  mini lamb roasts, potatoes gratin, salad (fresh from the garden) and bread. It was a feast. 

The nightly ritual is to watch an old movie. The nights selection was Dave. I made about 40 minutes before excusing myself for bed. A pretty good first day. 

What happened to Thursday?

The flight to Auckland was long but not difficult. I left Honolulu on Wednesday afternoon, flew 9 hours, crossed the equator and the international date line and arrived in Auckland on Friday. The time changes are baffling. I use the World Click feature on my iPhone to see the time/date in other places but it is still confusing. Oh well. 

The flight was good. Eat, drink, movie, eat, drink. Not much to complain about. 

At arrival we were told to stay in our seats and prepare to be disinfected (I didn’t know I was infected). A guy came aboard, handed the flight attendants spray cans. They opened all the luggage compartments then walked up and down the aisles spraying into the air. Odd. 

I was first off, first through an easy passport check, first through customs and was out the door into a warm humid night. I walked about 20 minutes through the airport parking lots to my hotel. A very plain room but it was a great nights sleep. 

I had breakfast and headed back to the airport., domestic terminal this time. The nice lady checking me in commented on my height and moved me to an exit row with more leg room. NZ people seem very nice. 

Today I fly to Christchurch, take a bus into town, find another bus stop to catch a 2.5 hour bus to Timaru to connect with Kathkeen and John. 

it will be nice to meet up with locals!!!

Step Two

i had a very nice flight from San Francisco to Hawaii. Welcome aboard champagne and guava juice, nice breakfast, a movie and a snack. I had a two hour layover in Homolulu. It seemed odd to be here and not leave the airport. No Roundtop Dr. No Laysan. Oh well next time. I sat in the outside in the gardens and enjoyed the warm (I think it’s snowing in Arlington). I made my way to the gate and immediately boarded. First class has its own jet bridge so we don’t accidentally fraternize with the other class (this is how snobs are made). I was greeted onboard with a nice quilt, slippers, another cocktail, a toothbrush and a  travel kit (interesting combo).  This is a 9 hour flight and I arrive in Auckland at 10:30 pm. I’ll try to let everyone know that I arrive. 





One day down…two or three to go

And I’m off…..well at least a little way. Today was a nice flight to San Francisco and a night at an airport hotel. I have splurged and used miles for a first class trip to New Zealand. So I had a nice meal and some wine. The flight was uneventful. I took a walk down the streets of Milbrae  and found a good Thai restsurant. I went to bed early in anticipation of long day tomorrow. 

Day 44 – Logoso to Finesterre

(This will be my final post for the Camino de Santiago. After today I’ll spend the next view days returning to being a traveler/tourists. I may post a few pictures from London but I’ll rest my tired typing finger from posts.)

Like so many days on this journey the day started with a great sunrise. It will be another amazing day.

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After a nice breakfast I headed down the trail. It was a great path through thin forests. At one point I looked back and the sun was coming up directly behind me in the east. I knew that meant my path forward to the west was the right one.

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Before long I came to a fork in the road. I had to chose between Muxia and Finesterre. I chose Finisterre.

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The path continued through pine trees passing a couple of ancient churches. Off in the distance I could see a marine layer but no sea. Finally I came over a rise and could see the ocean.

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The path continued down to the town of Cee. A cute place on a small inlet. The path continued along above the rocky shore. Finally after teasing me with nice views I came down to the waters edge. Before me was a white sand beach reaching toward Finesterre.

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I took off my shoes and walk into the cool water. I’d made it across Spain to the Atlantic Ocean.

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I walked about 2km in my bare feet carrying my pack walking in the water. It felt wonderful. At the end of the beach I was at Finisterre. I dried my feet put on my shoes and walked into town. As I got above the beach I could see how clear and pretty the water was.

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I went to the municipal albergue and received another compestella and my final stamp in my credential. My camino was over.

Lorraine had told me of a place she’d heard was nice one so I headed to the Hotel Lopez. A little old lady walked me from floor to floor and room to room so I could chose a room . Finally on the 3rd floor she showed me a room with a double bed and an amazing view. This was the one. I asked “Cuánto es”. I thought her response was 50 but could have been 60. A bargain either was so I said Si. She told me to rest and come pay later (at least that’s what I thought she said). Later I went down to retrieve my passport and pay the bill. She slid the invoice toward me. Not 50…not 60….if was 20!!!! I may move here.

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I went to the store and bough a San Miguel beer. I walked up the hill and down the other side to the end of the earth. The sun was slowly sinking into the sea.

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I sat and watched it drop into the ocean. Like countless pilgrims before me back though the ages I sat and wondered what was out there.

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Last December while on vacation with Carolyn we went to Larrabee State Park. About 6 weeks earlier I’d watched the movie The Way and decided I was going to do the camino. I’d done some basic research and knew that the scalloped shell was the sign of the camino. While there at Larrabee I found a shell and picked it up. Not sure what it was for but knew I’d use it.

Last July while traveling with Carolyn and Emily in France we went to Vezeley. This is actually a popular starting place for the camino. As we walk along I saw the scalloped shell in the sidewalk. It was marking the start of the way from Vezeley. I took a picture standing over the shell which is the picture at the top of this blog.

I carried that shell from Washington all across Spain. Today when I reached the ocean I placed it on the beach, stood above it a took another picture. Later as I stood on the beach watching the sunset I picked up a new scalloped shell and put it in my pocket. As the sun set on the horizon I thought of all the people I know and love far off in the west. As the sun went down I threw the Washington shell into the ocean. It had traveled from the east side of the Atlantic Ocean to the east side of the Pacific ocean. Quite the journey. Just like mine.

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Buen Camino

Day 43 – Negreira to Logoso

Today was another amazing weather day. High clouds this morning clear skies this afternoon. Everyone keeps commenting on how unusual this is.

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The walk today was really nice. There were very few people, the trails were varied through farmland, forest , hills and flat areas.

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I’ve seen lots of mushrooms along the way. All very different.

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I noticed in this area the horreos are very different. They are made from rocks instead of wood or bricks.

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I had a very long walk today. I think if was about 35 km, one of my longer ones. All day the huge windmills were in the distance. Toward the end of the day they I actually got to them.

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After talking to several pilgrims I have altered my plans. I’m going to bypass Muxia and head straight to Finisterre. Word is the walk from this direction is great and will be missed from Muxia. So tonight is my last albergue and tomorrow my final walk. I’ll spend a couple of days in Finesterre then go back to Santiago for a couple of days. After 32km I was unhappy with the albergue and decided to go a bit further. The final 4 km were great. Above a river. Windmills nearby. Green. Cool. Very nice.

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The choice to move on was good. The final albergue is small (only 7 people tonight). It has great views into the valley. It is quiet, clean and they even provide a towel (a first). Had one more peregrino meal of Galicia soup, fish, fries, desert and wine. I dined with a Canadian and a couple from Idaho and San Diego (not sure how that works). We finished dinner with a drink called liquor of herbs. Delicious.

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I have a hotel reservation tomorrow night so I’ll try and take the final walk slowly. It is suppose to be another great weather day (but rain is coming).