My initial skepticism about Queenstown was unfounded. I had many activities that were geared toward the locals as much as tourists. It turned out that there was a huge Harley Davidson rally in town. So there were leather outfitted  groups walking about the town all weekend. At various times I would run across big gatherings of bikers and while having breakfast one morning they had a giant ride by. While not local to Queenstown these guys were definitely NZ locals.     

The afternoon before I had seen a sign that there would be wine/food festival in the gardens on the peninsula. However the forecast was for rain and I  figured it wouldn’t be a good outdoor  event. However the day turned out great so I headed to the gardens. It was a smallish event with about 8 wineries from Gibson Valley and 8-10 nice food tents. I  paid my entrance fee, got a nice wine glass and tokens to taste 3 wines. I also signed up for a cooking demonstration class. The setting was really nice. 

As I strolled about tasting the wines I could see that the food was very nice as well. I settled on a tent selling 3 kinds of brochettes Beef, Salmon and goat cheese pear.  I settled on Salmon with a base of arugula and a Dijon   dressing. Delicious. I wanted more but knew my cooking class was soon. 

The cooking demonstration class was in a tent for about 50 people. The chef was a famous British chef, Sean Connolly,  with a fancy steak restaurant in Auckland. He was very funny and entertaining. He prepared three courses. As he demonstrated there were two sous chefs making plates for each person. All the food was delicious and we got more wine tastings. 

The courses included scampi crudo, steak tartare and duck fat chips. All three were great.  

 Afterward I returned to the wine festival. It was mostly  a local crowd. There were tables set up in the park and musicians playing at several stages along the way. I sat and enjoyed one glass of wine.   

I headed home for a nap ( I can’t drink wine in the afternoon).  Afterward I headed out for an evening beer at a pub (I can drink beer in the evening). On the way I came across a crowd of mostly young people streaming into a fenced off parking lot where there was loud music. I watched for a while and saw that it was some sort of wild bicycle championship. I decided for $5 I’d check it out.  There was a tall deck built 40 feet up on scaffolding.  The bikers would launch off the deck and follow a rather short course through several hills and drops doing various stunts. It was amazing and hilarious.     

I noticed that everyone has beer but nothing was for sale in the fenced off lot. So I crossed the street and purchased a beer (I wanted to fit in). After a bit of trouble getting it opened without an opener I enjoyed the beer and watched what appeared to be true locals.   

Afterward I headed back to the backpackers as the sun set over the lake. I had Indian takeaway in the small shared kitchen with the 20 year olds, though they weren’t local I don’t think. 

 My last morning was the most spectacular of the trek. It was a perfectly clear sky with views of the mountains across the flats. I had my breakfast as the sun rose.   

The last leg of the journey was only about 1.5 hours and my shuttle was at 10 so I  had a nice leisurely (downhill) walk to the end. It was a nice final walk as the sun streamed through the trees.   

At the end I waited briefly until my shuttle arrived. Again only two other people were on the bus. Off season is certainly nice. The bus was a 2 hour drive through nice scenery mostly along the lake that ended in Queenstown.   

I retrieved my box (it had arrived!!!) and dropped my things at the backpackers (Kiwi for a hostel) since I  couldn’t check in until 2:00. I wandered the streets full of shops hawking adventure trips like bungy jumping, parasailing, river rafting etc. I was a bit concerned about spending 3 nights here. I came across a shop with a huge line down the street. It was a place called Fergburger. I’d heard talk about this place on the trek. Great burgers and long lines. I joined in. It was just a street front no place to sit. I ordered my Fergburger and chips (fries) and was told to come back in 20 minutes. While I waited I found a great park on the lake with a weekend market. There was a man playing great music. I went back, got my burger and returned to the park for lunch. The grass was covered with people enjoying the sun, music, and many with a delicious Fergburger. 

Turns out the park was right in front of my backpackers. After eating I went in checked into what turned out to be the best location in town. Below is the view that $36 gets you in Queenstown….

If your willing to have have 3 strangers for roommates (and yes I snagged the double lower bunk).   

Over the next 3 nights I had roommates that included a 68 year old NZ woman that came from Timaru every weekend to go to the casino, an angry looking German girl, a tattoo covered guy with a skateboard and an Asian guy from France that once he got into his bunk I never saw him get out in 2 days. After covering more ground I found that Queenstiwn was a lovely town. Amazing views, great parks along the lakes, lots of music and nice pubs.   

I hit a pub for nice beer.   

Then I returned to my backpackers to make dinner in the common kitchen where the young guests were gathering for their dinner as well. I  wonder what the youngsters thought of the grandpa in the corner watching them.  

The Routeburn was an amazing experience but it was nice to get a hot shower and a meal that wasn’t freeze dried. 

Note 3/31/15: I’m sorry I’ve been slow about catching up on posts. I have been in Nelson for 5 days and should have caught up but didn’t. Go figure.  I’ll post this but then I’m off in my campervan and I’ll be off the grid for about a week. I’ll keep posting when I get a signal. 

Today the hike was only one hour long so I enjoyed an extra coffee and watched everyone pack and leave. I had heard about a 2 hour hike to a nice overlook so I decided to give it a try. I headed to where the trail should start right by a bridge but I saw nothing. Finally I decided a break in the grass was the trail and headed up. Though not well defined it was a trail (it showed what a great job is done in maintaining the real trails).  This photo was the trail. Can you see it?

The views from the top were grand. I was looking down on the flats my destination for today.   

On my way back I had a nice view down on last nights hut.   

I retrieved my things and started to leave. As I went outside a helicopter made a landing to pickup empty gas canisters.

The hike down was short and very nice. At the bottom I found a hut on the edge of a lovely meadow. This was a smaller hut two  rooms with 8 bunks each. Since this one was close to the start (my end) it had few trampers. In fact it was me, a group of 4 and then very late 2 German girls arrived. Only 7 total. It was a nice hut with a great view out the front.        It was an amazing day so I crossed the river and walk out across the meadow. The views in every direction were gorgeous. I walked for a bit then found a spot in the sun for a short nap. The warmth felt great after the previous cooler days.   

In the evening as it got cooler the sunset was great. I had my final dinner of chicken curry (4/5 stars) and was in bed at 8:30. 

 I woke up to a beautiful day. Had my oatmeal breakfast (with reconstituted dried fruit) and coffee and prepared for the longest walk of the trek.   

The hike started up the mountain and entered a forest that looked very much like Fanghorn from the Lord of the Rings movies. There were big, dark forestsand the path was lined with stones climbing into the forest. 

The path  was mainly uphill with the views getting better and better.       

The trail climbed up toward the pass called the Saddle. It was much colder.  At the Saddle was a side hike up Conical Hill.  I switched to long pants and my warmest shirt and headed up. The trail was steep and much tougher than before. But at the top the view was incredible. Through the mist I could see the ocean. While I sat a few snow pellets started to hit me. 

The path was marked my solid iron  post many bent by the force of the winter storms. 

Once down the trail continued through amazing terrain until I could see off the other side of the pass.     

Tonight’s hut was by a big waterfall.    

This was the most impressive building of all the huts. It had a long wide deck looking down on the flats. The hut was big, a great cooking and eating area and the view was unbelievable. 

After resting I  decided another swim was in order. I made my way down to the falls, found a pool and took the plunge.    

It felt great, oh yes and a bit cold. 

My dinner was beef bourgeon pretty good (4/5 stars). Then I headed to bed at 8:30. Luckily tonight’s hut was all single bunks. First rate. 

I slept well (and long, 10 hours) and got up around 8:00 once there was enough light to see. I went down to the dining area and had my less than delicious breakfast, oatmeal, dried fruit, crackers, jam and instant coffee. I hit the trail about 10:30 after a short hike along Lake Howden. 

 For the first hour I didn’t see anyone and finally passed a few people going the other way (I was actually doing the hike backwards of most people). Before long I arrived at Earland falls. I sat and enjoyed them while having a snack, 

The hike this   Was a gradual climb of about 3 hours long mainly through the beech tree forests with a few views out.  As I got higher the views got more impressive. 

 Finally I arrived at Lake McKenzie my stop for the night. I could see the roof top of the hut as I arrived. When I got in front I was surprised to see a nice building. Inside I could see lots of lights (last night we had 2 solar lights that were only on from 7:30-10:00). Here at 2:00 in the afternoon I could see lots of lights on. Something wasn’t right. Turns out I was seeing the luxury  hut for the fancy people. The glampers (glamorous campers). While I’m paying $50 for a night, these people are paying $500. That night the Hut Warden talked with disdain about the leather chairs, fancy wine, 3 course meal and a PowerPoint show of the area that the glampers got. 

So I continued a bit further to the accommodations for the trampers (my group). While not the same as the glampers this building was nicer than last nights. I was the first to arrive since mist of the trampers were coming from a hut ) hours away.  

This hut was nicer than last nights. Larger also. This hut sleeps 48 and was fully booked for the night. The cooking and eating area wee very nice.  

The sleeping area was another story. Luckily j had arrived first. There were two bunk areas. The first was upstairs. On one side was 12 single bunks. I snagged a bottom bunk on the end.  

But across from these were 12 matts lined up one after another. Auttke close for my comfort.  

But this wasn’t the best (or worst). I went to the other bunk house and there were four bunk beds. But each was 4 pads across. I can’t imagine climbing up and getting over to the 4th spot. And getting up in the middle if the night would be s nightmare.  

After securing my precious single bunk I went fot a walk along the lake (later I took a bath in the lake….cold).  

I went and checked out the camping area. It was a covered area but I think it would be a find dark cold night spent here.  

To make matters worse the campers were not allowed to come to the trampers hut to cook or enjoy the hot wood stove. Just like the trampers weren’t allowed to visit the glampers hut. A real class system (just like Downton Abby). 

I continued along a hike to Split Rock. It was an amazingly huge rock with a giant split in the middle. I can’t imagine the geologic event that caused this split.  

I made my way back to the hut where other trampers had arrived. It had been a cold day but the sun came out in the late afternoon. Everyone sat on the front pourch enjoying the sun.  

Later I made my dinner of venison and noodles. It wasn’t very good (3/5 camping stars) compared to last nights     Morrocan lamb stew (5/5). I went to bed about 9:30. I was glad I wasn’t a camper out in the cold. I was glad I wasn’t a trampers on the mattress assembly line. And I wondered what the glampers were having for desert. 

It was a pretty good night. This morning everyone accused everyone else of snoring so I guess everyone was making noise. I splurged for breakfast had had a great breakfast sandwich and coffee. 

Today is the day I start the Routeburn Track so I have selected certain items to be sent on to Queenstown so I don’t have to carry them. I packed stuff in a box, tape it closed, wrote my name on it and left it at the desk with $30. I hope I see my box in Queenstown. 

We checked out of our room, a four bunk room we shared with a German. Kathleen and John were great sports staying in a shared room. 

We headed out for our first activity of the day. A cruise on Milford Sound. We  selected a small early morning voyage. It was a great decision.

It was a beautiful morning as we headed down Milford Sound. 

There were only 19 people on our cruise so it was easy to move about and check out the views from the various parts of the boat. Since it was a smaller  boat the captain went right up to shore to see the seals and waterfalls (a bit closer than John normally takes the Laysan). 

The views all along the way were gorgeous. I took lots of pictures. Here are a few. 

Afterward we headed up to the Routeburn Track to get me started on my trek. 

Kathkeen and John hiked with me as far as the first hut, my lodging for the night. 

The first hut was the Howden Hut. A smaller hut. There were only 19 people (capacity was 28). It was very rustic. A cooking eating area, running cold water, a wood stove, toilets and a bunk room. Primitive but better than sleeping outside. 

I’m back on the grid so I’m going to start posting starting from last Sinday, hopefully I’ll eventually catch up. 

We left our Cottage and headed toward the Fiordlands, a 2.5 hour drive for 45 miles. It was a beautiful drive. Our first stop was mirror lakes, the photos explain the name. 

We had a great lunch beside a fast moving, amazingly clear stream. 

We headed on and arrived at Milford Sound, checked into the lodge and checked out the area. We stopped for a beer at another lodge then headed back to our place for appies. 

We cooked our meal in the communal kitchen. 

We had soup, salad and toast. It was excellent. 

Today we had a relaxing morning at out cottage enjoying the view. We feasted on the fresh baked bread and jam provided by our host. We decided we would trek along the Kepler Track one of nine Great Walks here in New Zealand. Our host, Dave, drove us up to the start and so we could walk back to the cottage. The hike started by crossing a river that was a scene from  the Lord of the Rings movies. 

The hike was in thick forest with views off to the fast moving river.  

The flora and fauna were beautiful as we journeyed on. 

It was a great hike. Very private and quiet. 

After about 4 hours we emerged at the Lake Te Anau where there were control gates at the entrance to the lake. 

We finished up by hiking home to enjoy a lovely sunset on our porch. 

Later  John grilled up some lamb chops the were amazing. 

We watch the rest of our movie and headed to bed. 

I am headed up toward Milford Sound tomorrow followed by a four day backpacking trip (The Routeburn Track). I will have no cell or wifi coverage so it will be a week before I am able to post again.  

This morning we packed up all of our belongings for our trip to Te Anau. We headed out with a goal of making interesting stops along the 4 hour journey. First stop Butler’s Jams. 

We bought jam, chutney, a delicious sausage pastry and a raspberry crumble. We considered just staying here but figured we should continue. We made a stop in Oamaru a small town Kathleen  and John had visited earlier. It had a big Steampunk museum. A new concept to me but very fascinating. 

Next up a really cool college town called Dunedin. We had lunch at a well known fish restaurant, The Best Cafe, and had great fish and chips. Delicious. 

We walked around the town a bit. There was a Cadberry chocolate factory, a cool town center with restaurants and bars and an old train station. 

Definitely a town to spend more time in. 

Next was a coffee stop where I found some unusual flowers. 

Before finally arriving in Te Anau and the Kepler Oaks Chalet where we are staying. It is a great cabin with spectacular views. It is in a 15 acre “farmlet” run by a nice couple with 3 young boys. They also have a dog, goat, rabbit, sheep, chickens, alpaca and horses. Helen our hostess provides us with homemade bread, jam, fresh eggs, juice, tasty deserts and incredible views. What a life. 



We made a delicious dinner and watched the first half of an GREAT movie (filmed partially in New Zealand)  called The World’s Fastest Indian (I highly recommend it) then headed to bed. 

Wednesday was a day to appreciate Timaru and the lovely house that John and Kathleen are staying in. We had a very leisurely morning enjoying our coffee. John made an excellent egg and bacon breakfast. We researched all thing New Zealand on our devices. We had toasties for lunch (grilled cheese sandwiches) then loaded up for a goodbye tour of Timaru. We cruised through the quaint shopping district then had one last hike. We followed a trailed called dashing rocks made famous by an old ship wreck site  along the steep cliffs. 





We headed home for a hot tub, nibbles and an excellent salmon dinner. Tomorrow we pack up and head south. Timaru was a great starting point for my journey. I wonder what’s ahead.