It’ll be a shirt post today.

I headed out as usual after a nice breakfast of coffee con leche, zumo and tortilla. The sky looked overcast but I could see the full moon through the clouds. As I crossed the bridge leaving town I could see the old protective wall.

For the first time the walk was along the shoulder of a relatively busy highway. Not ideal but it didn’t last too long.

The day turned out to be very nice after yesterday’s rain. It was cool and crisp. The sky was partly cloudy and very blue. I spotted some cows behind some cat tails and an old house with mountains in the distance.

The city arrived. They do a good job of weaving the pilgrims around the highways as we enter even providing pilgrim bridges to cross over.

The path went through the city by apartments and stores. Eventually I crossed through an old wall and was in the old city. Pedestrian, old and very European. Really nice. I had booked a hotel and it’s within a block of the cathedral in the old city. It has wooden floors and old staircases, much like last nights albergue but tonight I sleep alone. I rested, wandered about, had some tapas and visited the cathedral.

As I walked back I saw a Texas boot store. I contemplated getting some but figured I didn’t need the extra weight.

Tomorrow I’ll tour the city. I may even splurge and get a massage.

This morning at 6:50 I woke up and was reading my emails waiting for the morning to start. I read a great comment from John (Maximus) about a picture yesterday. He warned me to be careful or I’d be a gladiator crossing the Spanish countryside. As I read it at 7:00 the hospitelero played a wonderful war hymn with lots of hallelujahs to wake us up. I realized this was no coincidence but that today would be a call to arms. As I started my 4th week my gear was well organized and I quickly packed and was first out the door. Dark clouds were overhead. The feel of storms was in the air. I headed to the cafe to get my morning start, I’d need my strength. At breakfast I met Edward from UK that warned others not to leave in the dark, the way would be challenging. As I started in the cold gray morning the rain began to fall. As I left town I walked with a few pilgrims that looked tired and forlorn. Before long I passed Martin and Jane as the wind began to blow.

Like a gladiator I pushed forward. The camino was reminding us that the way is not easy, it’s not a vacation, it requires determination. The wind continued to blow, the rain continued to fall. I raised my fist in the air and yelled “I will not be defeated”. This stretch of road is the longest stretch of an old Roman road used by Caesar 2000 years ago. I’m not the first gladiator to come this way. I walked for 17 km with no services or dry places to stop.

I carried on the wind and rain trying to slow me down. Finally I found a grove of trees to shelter me from the storm. I had a snack of almonds and an orange, energy I needed.

I had left the other pilgrims behind. They took a route to a village with a cafe but their path was along a highway. Instead I took the road less traveled and headed across the fields. In the distance I spotted an evil creature, this was the battle I was destined for….

Alas it turns out not to be the beast. Another day.

However, I was rewarded with a stop in the rain and a peak of sun. This gladiator had weathered the storm. The battle was not won but a small victory was sweet.

Since I had persevered I played at taking photos along the road. I’m sure I looked quiet comical trying to balance my camera in the dirt and running down the road to be photographed.

I got to the albergue in a small village surrounded by an old wall.

It was a great place. Old wooden floors, crooked stair ways, low ceilings. Lots of character. I had a beer with the Canadian philosophy major then went back to make dinner at the albergue. Lots of pilgrims and we sat around telling stories. At one point an Asian woman said behind me does anyone have some food for a hungry pilgrim. Well my meal of beans, chorizo and onions had leftovers so I offered them to her with some bread. She sat down and it turned out she was in her third camino. She regaled us with stories of the best albergues.

Another great day. Thanks to Maximus for inspiring the day.

Sorry trouble with photo tonight. I’ll try again in the morning. I’ll post what I have.

I have fewer pictures to post today. Not because it was less interesting but more because it was more similar. The countryside was again very impressive. Wide open vistas, trees, fields.

This morning it seemed that there were many pilgrims. I could look ahead and seem them along the path.

I had left at 7:45 in the cool morning air and felt very good about walking. I was hoping for a long day to get off the normal stage and connect with some different Pilgrims. Nothing really wrong with the current set but they seem to be predominantly American, a little loud and already connected in groups. It meant moving ahead of Martin and Jane whom I really enjoy but hopefully I’ll reconnect with them ahead.
I stopped for a snack at a picnic table and spoke with the girl from Hawaii. Bob from Florida came by and gave us find great pastries from the last town. I kept trucking along and slowly got ahead of the pack. After a crowded morning I didn’t see anyone for 3 hours. My feet were tired but I continued and got to San Nicholas. A very small village. The albergue was great. It was divided into 4 rooms of 3 bunks each but there were only 5 people staying here, 2 in my room.

I did the routine but as I hung my clothes it started to rain. I decided to go use the €5 dryer. There was a very comfortable couch so I sat and read and napped. At 6:00 I went and got a beer. When I came back there was a woman on the other couch. We started taking. Her name was Ish. She was from Turkey but lived in London. She gave me lots of ideas of things to do when I’m in London. At 7:30 we went down for dinner. We sat at one table a German couple sat at another and a young guy came in and joined us. He was from Toronto, has just gotten a degree in Philosophy, quit his job and was traveling. We had a great meal, delicious soup, fish, salad and a boiled seasoned potatoes. Followed by flan and of course wine. We sat and talked until 10:00 when the barkeep said it was closing time. It was a great evening.

I headed out around 7:45 (barely light) after getting a good cup of coffee. The first 6 km were along an old canal. I walked along thinking of the great French canal trip I had with Carolyn, Kathleen and John et al several years ago. These canals are no longer used for boating only irrigation.

Eventually I crossed the canals at an old lock. It was several licks down but the doors were no longer in place on the lower locks so the water just flowed by.

The landscape has changed once again. The land looks more fertile and is flatter with just small hills about. As I passed through more villages I saw more art dedicated to the pilgrims. I know I’ve posted several but they are each very unique and I really like them.

The way then followed the old canal channel. It was really pretty with the trees, cat tails and other plants.

The day was very cool. I walked in my long sleeve shirt the entire day….first time. I started thinking about colder weather and wondered about my hands with no gloves. At one point I passed a pilgrim that had socks on his hands, problem solved. I thought most of the pilgrims eyre overreacting to the cold. All bundled up, hoods drawn, socks on their hands, what will they do when it really get cold. I walked in shorts and my light long sleeve shirt, it felt great.

I stopped at the first albergue in Carrion de los Condes. It was a old mine start connected to a church. The hospitelero took great effort to show us where the key was hidden to open the door (in the window sill).

I was first to arrive and got a bottom bunk in the cheap €5 room. Really 2 connect rooms with about 10 bunks.

I walked around town, actually a nice modern village. I had s beer on the square sitting alone waving to peregrinos I knew. A fellow I had met in Orrision back on day 1 came up and talked with me. It was good to see one pf the first pilgrims I’d met and see he was doing well (he is 70 years old).

Jane had told me that there would be vespers in the connected church at 7:00 and that the nuns would sing. So I headed down. The church was very nice and the nuns sat at the back of the church. There were only a few pilgrims in attendance. They stared with prayers recited in unison and then went on to singing. It was beautiful. I use my back facing camera to take a picture (bad pilgrim).

I had offers for a peregrino meal but was looking for a change. So I found a bar that served pizza. On a Sunday night it wasn’t a particularly popular bar, just me and 2 others. I ordered my pizza and it was a actually Avery good (and spicy).

At the end of the meal I decided I wanted a 1/2 bottle of wine to take home so I got brave with my Spanish (using my translator app).

I threw out a “¿me puede vender la mitad de una botella de vino?” Without a blink he pulled out a bottle that was less than full, got another and filled it to half, corked it and set it in front of me. I said “Cuánto es” and he replied nueve. I said todos? He smiled and nodded. €9 for a good pizza, two glasses of wine and a half bottle to go. Amazing.

Word it were at the half way point to Santiago, it’s going really fast. .

I slept great. 10:15 to 7:15. I think the Holland cyclist stayed quietly in bed until I woke up. I learned today not to skip an open bar with coffee in the morning. I did this and did not find another. Bad decision. However there was a nice sunrise.

The walk again today was very nice with great vistas in the distance.

The hike started by going up a large hill. At the top a young guy had coffee, fruit, juice..,, all set up on a table. The cost donativo. I got a cup of coffee in a plastic cup. Not the best but most appreciated. There are many nice sites along the route today including a shady picnic area full of pilgrims and an old bridge across a pretty river.

In a small village I came across Martin and Jane. I walked with them for 8km.

They were walking further so I said goodbye and went to find my albergue. This village looks like one from Mexico. Dusty, dry, empty, crumbling. But at the gates of the albergue an oasis. The owner is an artist with his work displayed everywhere.

I checked in, one of the first but was quickly followed by a large group of rather loud Americans (nice but loud). I gathered my things and moved to a room that was an old barn. Rows of bunks with a loft of single beds.

This place even had a pool , so I soaked my feet in the rather cold water.

Later I sat in the shaded patio and visited with several pilgrims.

Tonight is a pilgrim meal served on long tables. This town has nothing else so everyone should be there.

The meal was pretty good. Garlic soup, fish, creme carmel and wine. I sat with a woman from San Francisco waiting on the results of her bar, and women from Holland, Australia and England. They talked a lot about their aches and pains. A common conversation topic.

And like the start of the day a nice sunset.

19.2 km
36298 steps

This mornings breakfast was uninviting but I did get coffee. I set off. The air was cool and the horizon was clear in all directions.

At one point the road went by the ruins of an old monastery. The road actually went through it.

After a relatively short walk I arrived in Castrojeriz around noon. In the picture below you can see a castle high on the hill.

There was a campground at the edge of town with a 4 person bungalow. I knew a campground would have good shower and washing facilities. I was right!! It was in a grove of trees and had a small front porch.

After my routine and rest a trio of bicyclers from Holland joined me in the cabin. They had ridden from Holland. Around 5:00 I walked up by the church and through the old town.

I decided to hike up to the castle (it had been a short day after all). The views were amazing and the castle ruins fascinating.

On my way back through town I had a beer with some pilgrims I knew that were staying at the municipal albergue, they said it was pretty basic and one giant room. Dinner was included at my place and I had a most delicious salad (it’s hard getting enough good veggies here), grilled steak and fries and a great raspberry cream caramel (18€ for bed and dinner). I sat alone and studied my route book but the Holland cyclist were at the next table. We talked and they are headed to Santiago, then south through Portugal across to Morocco and then somehow to Barcelona before flying home in February. At least I think that’s what they said. It makes me have greater respect for the cyclist. They are leaving at 7:00 so I’ll have the hooch to myself. The bar opens at 8:00 so I may go slow and have a coffee before I leave. Tomorrow is a short day followed by a long one. The storm back in Arlington seemed pretty intense. Just yesterday Martin and Jane were asking me about tornados in Texas. So when I saw them this evening I relayed the story of the big storms that swept the area. They were most impressed.

PS. I’m sitting on the porch of my mini-condo finishing my wine. Two of the Holland people came back (they are probably in their mid 60’s). They got their books and went back to the bar. As they left they asked where I was from. I said Texas. They went oh Texas, very big. As the walk off the woman said George Bush and blew a raspberry. It was hysterical!!

I woke up at 6:30 but it was on my own not to the rustling of others. I had my breakfast and packed up.

My feet had been very tired when I arrived in Burgos, now they feel much better. I like the old city of Burgos very much but the hike out of town was not very interestingly and went for a long time. After several uninteresting villages all of the sudden I broke out into the countryside. I had entered the meseta. It was really pretty. This picture is a panoramic from road behind me to road ahead of me.

The air was cool and and sun bright. I reached a high point and could see the path winding down the hill to Hornillaos.

This is a very sleepy town. It has a population of 100 but it looks bigger. However many of the buildings along the street appear to be façades, the building behind collapsed.

It reminds me of a small Mexican village, dry, sunny, and dusty. Many people seem to be walking on but I’ve stopped since there is no hurry.
I went through the routine and it was a nice sunny day my stuff dried nicely (first time in several days). I read, wrote postcards, and rested. I went to the small square and had a couple of beers. Various pilgrims came and went some I knew some were new. One was a nice lady from New Zealand, Marion. She is a contract nurse in Australia. She works when she needs to and travels the rest of the time. We talked about places to visit in New Zealand but I think that information didn’t stick in my head. At 6:00 the pilgrims meal started and everyone rushed the door. It looked like the blue light special at a diner. I sat in the square listening to the noise and decided to skip dinner and have bread, cheese and almonds. Martin and Jane came by and we discussed the fine art of Chablis and Champagne wine. I’ll have to start planning a trip back to France. Afterward I returned to the albergue and chatted with a couple of young guys playing chess. They seemed to be thinking hard about what move to make but the two empty wine bottles made me think that deep thinking wasn’t really happening.

It’s been a good day.

21.8 km
33891 steps

Today was a rest day. I stayed in the small albergue above a church and the young peregrinos started studying about 6:00. I stayed in bed until 7:30 and left at 8:00. The hospitelero played his guitar and sang as we got ready for bed. I took this picture because it shows life in the albergue. As he sings the young guy takes off his pants to go to bed. On the camino modesty is out the window.

This morning I did a coffee con leche crawl from place to place waiting until 11:00 when I could check into my hotel. A very nice place on the pedestrian way with a view over the street.

Once I got in I immediately took a bath and soaked my body and feet. It was wonderful. Once done I did the routine that included washing my clothes in the tub. I then hung them all around the room to dry.

My big event for the day was visiting the cathedral. I’ve seen many cathedrals around Europe but this was the most grand. It was overwhelming. Each chapel was like an entire church, and there were 10 or 20 chapels. I especially liked the ornate domes in each chapel.

I also really enjoyed the cloister. They had wonderful ceilings and beautiful stained glass.

Afterward I walked up to the castle (not very impressive) above the town for a nice view.

Tonight I met Martin and Jane again for wine and tapas. I had a great chorizo dish and some calamari. Delicious. Well enough of the high life back to walking tomorrow. This is the start of the meseta. This is the high plateau that goes on for days. I imagine it like west Texas or New Mexico. Lots of wide open spaces. Many people don’t like it but I’m looking forward to it. My feet are rested and I’m ready to find the way. Buen Camino.

I got up this morning with no food in the pack and no breakfast at the albergue…..poor planning. However, the small tienda was open and I got a fresh zumo, coffee con leche and tortilla. Quiet good and the energy I needed. As I left town there was another nice art piece representing the camino. It’s really nice how many of these there are along the way.

The trail climbed up through nice rolling hills as them ironing light grew. I often look for the “alternate” less traveled paths and there was one today. It went through rolling pastures and fields. At one point I startled two deer that seemed cry panicked and ran with no cover off into the distance.

The path into the city was long but I followed 2 Spanish and 2 French pilgrims and found since path along a river that was shaded. The city is very big and it was disorienting to try an find my way. I found the small albergue (the municipal one is very large) that has only 16 beds and is located above an old church. This is definitely a younger crowd but I notice they seem as tired as me and take longer naps in the afternoon.

I went out for lunch and succumbed to the desire for a hamburger. Trying to keep it somewhat local I ordered the Eaplanola good but not a Texas burger.

I went to the cathedral which looks amazing. I will visit it tomorrow.

I found a great little street packed with amazing tapas bars. In the first one I found the lady from Zimbabwe, 2 Australians and the most obnoxious American from NY (born in Tulsa). After a very good tapa and wine I moved on to the next place (and to get away from the American). My new good friends Martin and Jane were there. These tapas were outstanding. I had a couple of glasses of wine and a great salmon tapa and a seafood stuffed pepper. Dinner!!!!

I have decided to get a hotel room tomorrow and check out more of Burgos (and rest my tired feet). I’ll visit the cathedral, castle and tapas bar.

As we’re getting ready for lights out (10:30, really late) the hospitelero sang great Spanish songs.

Last nights albergue was at the back of a nice hotel. When checking in we had to go into the lobby and it was like the Beverley hillbillys going in. Instead of the usual local showing you where everything was a nicely dressed receptionist showed us around back. This morning I splurged and had the buffet breakfast at the hotel. Eggs, sausages, breads, juice, fruit, cereal, yogurt and coffee. I left stuffed and with my pockets full for a snack later.

There had been a little rain in the afternoon yesterday which caused a mist this morning. The walk was very pretty. The terrain was different, less farming and more trees.

I had decided to take two shorter days heading into Borgos so I arrived early…actually first at this private albergue. I rested, walked about, had a few beers with the gang and had a can of bean soup with added onion ad chorizo. Tomorrow into Borgos a rather large city.

18.5 km
38474 steps